The Waves That Shape Us: A Love Letter to a Puerto Rican Slab

This wave has shaped me. It forged the surfers who came before me, and today it is shaping a new generation of Puerto Rican surfers. Here is my love letter to this wave, told through an exceptional swell that delivered three days of intense, powerful surfing.
I first took on this rocky outcrop when I was 15, and the adventure has been a real struggle ever since. I’ve learned a tremendous amount there and taken countless falls. This wave taught me everything about surfing and respect, while revealing far more about myself than I would have liked. During this swell, I saw the surfers who inspired me and the rising young generation surfing side by side; that’s when I knew I wanted to do something special with the footage and photos I’d captured. This video therefore accompanies an article I wrote for the latest issue of *Surfers Journal*.
It’s a project that’s particularly close to my heart. Thank you for watching, reading, and supporting print media as well as lesser-known surfers 🇵🇷